The Land Cruiser’s engine fell silent, swallowed by the savannah’s vastness. James poured the gin and tonics, the perfect bush sundowner drink, as the sun slipped behind the Rift Valley’s wall and a crackly fire sparked into life. There is a certain kind of stillness that settles when the day gives way to night. Afterwards, we headed to the lodge for dinner, dust-covered and hungry. 

 Perfectly Positioned  

Arriving at the warmest of welcomes, this small boutique lodge with just eight cottages felt as if we had arrived at someone’s private wildlife estate. At the heart of our experience was Catherine and her exceptional team. Their warm smiles, genuine hospitality and intuitive service transformed our stay into something truly special. 

Tucked deep within the private 18,000-acre Oserengoni Wildlife Sanctuary, above the shimmering shores of Lake Naivasha in the Great Rift Valley (one of the true natural wonders of the world), we found the delightful boutique lodge hidden in an indigenous forest. Chui Lodge remains one of Naivasha’s best-kept secrets, offering an exquisite blend of luxury and safari adventure in a pristine environment for both wildlife and guests. Its proximity to Lake Naivasha, one of Kenya’s most scenic freshwater lakes, allows guests to combine land-based wildlife safaris with tranquil lake activities. 

Design and Atmosphere  

This quaint, exclusive lodge evokes a sense of old-world nostalgia with its roaring log fires, cosy library, and private verandas that overlook free-roaming wildlife. The cosy atmosphere with the fascinating amount of detail hidden in the décor is a tribute to its surroundings. Built using sustainably sourced bush stone, Acacia, Olive and Leleshwa wood, which are all sourced from within the sanctuary. Every piece of furniture, hand-crafted in the on-site workshop, gives a distinctive African flair to the entire property. The interior design can be described as eclectic and rustic-chic. 

The unique character of Chui Lodge was inspired by June Zwager, a passionate conservationist and entrepreneur dedicated to sustainable tourism. Her vision was to create a sanctuary that preserves the natural environment while providing luxurious comfort and authentic cultural experiences. 

Working with local artisans, she utilised sustainably harvested wood sourced from the sanctuary itself. This eco-friendly approach extends throughout the lodge, from handcrafted furniture to stonework and traditional murals that echo the colours and textures of the African landscape. 

Exclusive Accommodation 

I so enjoyed this intimate lodge, which is full of homely charm with accommodation consisting of eight beautifully appointed luxury cottages, each designed with elegance and unparalleled comfort in mind. The cottages are well-spaced and all located in the garden. Each has its own veranda and magnificent views of the Mau Mountain Range and the wildlife sanctuary. 

The bedrooms have impressive four-poster, king-size beds with comfortable armchairs in front of the roaring log fires, as the evenings are chilly. The cottages feature individual decor, so no two rooms are alike. The unique, handcrafted details, such as the interesting twisted Marula wood and batik artwork, give the rooms a warm, personalized rustic, but exclusive feel. The three deluxe cottages elevate the experience further with separate lounge areas, perfect for unwinding.  

Bush breakfast 

One of the highlights of our stay was an unforgettable breakfast in the bush. We were whisked away to a secluded spot deep in the wilderness where a beautifully arranged breakfast awaited us under a canopy of ancient trees. The crisp morning air carried the rich aroma of freshly brewed coffee, mingling with the intense camphor aromatic scent of the surrounding Leleswa bushes. A lavish spread had been set up, complete with freshly baked pastries, seasonal fruit and a selection of hot breakfast dishes cooked to perfection in the open air. The setting was magical, and the occasional rustle in nearby bushes reminded us that we were still very much in the wild, sharing this tranquil moment with unseen wildlife. This experience perfectly captured the essence of a safari; immersed in nature yet indulging in the finer pleasures of life. 

It is all in the details 

This elegant, yet wonderfully unpretentious lodge is family-owned and managed. The heart of the lodge is in a separate building where the dining area, lounge and bar area feature pillars and murals with intricate African carvings. Designed for both relaxation and social connection, decorated with unique pieces of art, shelves of books and big comfortable sofas, it was not difficult to settle in quickly. We could unwind in the spacious indoor area or step outside and relax on the veranda overlooking the waterhole with views of the sanctuary beyond. 

A short walk through the tropical gardens is a tranquil oasis with a heated swimming pool, comfortable loungers and a private space if we chose to take our lunch around the swimming pool. 

In the serene garden area, a new spa was being built. I treated myself to a blissful escape by having a relaxing massage set up in one of the cottages with soft light and a cosy wood fire. I found the atmosphere to be intimate, relaxing, and deeply connected to the surrounding nature. The menu of treatments is affordable and the perfect way to unwind after a game drive. 

Farm – to Table Focus 

We found the meals equally enchanting as the chef personally explained every dish that celebrated local flavours and fresh, seasonal ingredients. Known for its intimate, personalised experience, with the kitchen playing a central role, the lodge’s chefs featured fresh, organic ingredients sourced from their own vegetable garden and dairy farm, crafting a menu that celebrates authentic Kenyan flavours with an international twist, which further enhanced the bespoke, rustic luxury experience. 

Wildlife and Activities  

Day and night drives –The Osenengoni Wildlife Sanctuary is renowned for its healthy population of over 30 leopards, and lions are occasionally spotted in the sanctuary’s woodlands and savanna, which connects to Hell’s Gate National Park. The area is known for an extensive array of wildlife, including the endangered Rothschild giraffe and Grevy’s zebra. Other mammals found are buffalo, warthogs, impalas, Grants gazelle and the shy, elusive Dik-dik. The birdlife is magnificent with over 300 species, including fish eagles and kingfishers.  

Boat cruises – A short drive from the lodge, Lake Naivasha offers peaceful boat cruises. Hippos and bird species such as African fish eagles and pelicans can be seen. The tranquil waters provide a refreshing contrast to the bush safari. 

Unique experiences like candlelit dinners deep within the sanctuary or bush breakfasts overlooking the plains. 

Day trips to nearby Rift Valley areas like Hell’s Gate National Park, Lake Nakuru, Lake Elementaita and Eburru Forest. 

Guided bush walks that focus on the smaller details of the ecosystem, such as plants, insects, and birdlife. 

Chui Lodge, meaning leopard in the Swahili language, offered us the opportunity to unwind, immerse ourselves in nature and be well cared for with genuine warmth. Whether basking in the lodge’s quiet elegance, savouring the exquisite bush breakfast or enjoying the exciting game drives, every moment was about the experience – it made us feel valued and at ease the minute we walked in. 

We completed our stay at Chui Lodge with the unforgettable ritual of a bush sundowner surrounded by grazing wildlife. Witnessing the golden hour of an African sunset, where the sky changes from vibrant gold to deep purple, invoked an ethereal feeling where I felt very small in a large, breathtaking world. This was a moment of pure serenity, defining the ultimate safari escape. 

Contacts

E: Reservations
T: +254 (0) 722 200 596 | +254 (0) 707 645 631 | +254 (0) 793 265 826
W: Oserengoni

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Written by Diane McLeish for Luxury Safari Magazine