September 18, 2024
Between the ears: A taste of riding across the Namib desert
Namibia is captivating from the moment you step foot into the country – with its vast deserts, towering sand dunes, and diverse wildlife. But for me, it’s a horseback safari that truly allows me to immerse myself in this raw and enchanting landscape – a country that has now firmly planted itself in my top 5 countries ever.
It’s safe to say I left a piece of my heart in the Namib desert when I embarked on the 320km 10 day riding adventure with Bonamy Private Travel and the Namibian Horse Safari Company. So let me try to put it into a brief story, capturing a day of riding across the Namib…
The smell of freshly made coffee and bread
The sound of the gentle whinnying of the horses and nature all around you awakening
The feel of the gentle breeze on your face – the only part of your body not wrapped up in the comfiest sleeping bag you will ever ‘own’
The result? The best alarm clock you could ever wish for
This is how every morning starts on a safari in the desert. No mindless scrolling on your phone, no checking of work emails first thing, no stress – because your reality is simple – the camp, the horses, the like-minded people and the vast desert. Nothing else matters or even exists, and it is absolute bliss.
Whilst it’s hard to pull myself out of my cosy cocoon (Egyptian cotton sleeping bag duvets!), I succumb to the temptation of chef Wilem’s fresh bread rolls. It’s normally still dark as we wake in time to watch the sunrise, so first things first – head torch on, wet wipe wash and freshen up (the main shower is always the night before), and riding gear on – the easiest morning routine ever, which always ends with a moment to sit on the camp bed with a cup of fresh coffee and enjoy the sunrise creep onto the horizon in complete peace. A moment of gratitude every morning is something we could all practise more in the rat-race we call ‘life’.
As the sun plants itself firmly in the sky it’s time for breakfast – 7am, and I’m there bang on time (as a Brit, I’m nothing if not punctual). After second (and probably third) helpings, I fill up my 2 x 1L water bottles, strap up my ankles (well, lead guide Andrew has the pleasure of doing this!), pop my essentials into my saddle bag (the essentials being my cap, lip balm with SPF, buff, dried mango for energy slumps and my water) and I’m ready for the ride ahead). Actually, I need my horse, don’t I…
The horses. The absolutely magical part of this safari. These horses are courageous, giving, forward going, cheeky, and most importantly they listen to you and understand what you as a rider need – it’s fascinating. And they can do this by forming a bond with their rider, which is a priority of the team on this trip. Unlike many other riding trips, here the horses are with you 24/7 and you are encouraged to be with them, to create a partnership – so I’m there digging around in the grooming bag for Satellite’s (my horse) favourite brush and we have a moment to connect before the ride each morning – giving him a much sought after scratch between his ears and fixing up his mane from rolling and relaxing the night prior. I tell him how I’m feeling for the day and he listens, ears pricked, eyes wide, and for a moment I know he can understand me.
Today we are riding 45 km from Spaarwater to Gaub’s Edge (part of the 320km ride across the desert). We saddle up, mount, and we are off – every morning is always met with anticipation and excitement of the day ahead – from both horses and riders. But we always settle into the swing of things pretty quickly.
This morning we have 20km which takes around 4 hours. It’s filled with lots of LSD (long slow distance – cantering for a couple for kms at a time), where we all spread out and lope along at leisure, aiming to stay out of the dust of the rider in front, whilst trying to look out for holes in the sand below, working as a team to navigate the terrain. The terrain also changes every hour or so – when I hear the word ‘desert’ I think of sand and vastness. But I hugely underestimated the beauty and variety of landscapes on offer in Namibia.
This is something which honestly blows my mind. We start the day with vast open plains, perfect for speed. And we pass some herds of oryx and a dazzle of Zebra along the way, before reaching our first rocky hill. The horses navigate it incredibly well, and we stop at the top for a moment to take in the views – the vast and variable views of the desert all around. The horses have a well-deserved snooze on our shoulders as we enjoy a sugar spike through apples and biscuits. I think I underestimate the heat with full riding gear on – so I make sure to listen to Andrew’s (lead guide) advice and stay hydrated – it’s easy to forget to keep drinking when you’re riding, but it’s incredible how much it helps (it sounds simple, I know).
We descend on foot, leading our horses next to us because of the steepness and uncertainty of the ground below. But we quickly mount back up and head on our way, and soon the landscape has once again completely changed. Now we embark upon the undulating sand dunes. The characteristic fiery red dunes of the Namib Desert have developed over many millions of years and have become the symbol of Namibia. Painting vibrant hues across the vast canvas of the desert, we take another moment here to capture the memory before some LSD makes it to lunch.
For me, lunch is a moment to rest, refresh and recharge. A cold ginger beer brings me back to life, along with a spritz of Roxanne’s (fellow rider turned friend) rose geranium face spray (don’t knock this until you’ve tried it). Chef Wilem cooks up a storm, in the middle of nowhere, and we all have a quick snooze in the shade before setting back off again for the afternoon, no time to waste in order to make it to the next camp before sunset.
The afternoon is met with yet another change in landscape and terrain (I should be used to it by now but it always shocks and excites me), before we have more LSD and our first race of the trip. All lining up, we look eagerly for lead guide Andrew to drop his arm, and we leave everything in the dust! Fast-paced freedom, with every surrounding sound, muted – it’s just you, your horse, and the silence of the desert, and there’s nothing quite like it.
After around 3.5 hours in the saddle that afternoon and crossing the Tropic of Capricorn, we make it to Gaub Edge camp where once again, we are the only ones there. We unsaddle, and the horses have a rewarding roll in the sand before we have a little exploration of the new camp for the evening. It’s always set up perfectly for our arrival – the team ‘on the ground’ seamlessly managing to turn ‘nowhere’ into ‘somewhere’ – it really is a home from home.
The horses are surrounding the camp, the bucket showers become a welcome way to expel the dust from aching bodies, before a quick change into comfy attire and retiring to the campfire communal area for the evening. Andrew and Larissa are waiting with your sundowner drink of choice, whilst you all sit around and regale stories from the day passed and moments captured on camera. Chef Wilem manages to surprise us all again with a dinner fit for royalty (where I obviously enjoy 2-3 helpings) and the evening finishes with Andrew giving his daily speech to the team. “Dearly beloved, we are gathered here today….” – everyone’s ears pricked to hear all about what the next day of adventure will entail.
My evening always ends in the same way – aching ribs from too much laughter, heavy eyes from trying to take in SO much surrounding beauty, full stomach from some of the most delicious food I’ve tried in Africa, and a full smile on my face as I settle onto my camp bed and wrap myself in my cloud-like duvet for the night.
I’m completely encapsulated by the present, my mind is free from the outside world as I lap up the sweet silence of the desert once more, this time falling instantly asleep below the shooting stars.
How can you have your own Namibian horseback adventure? Now comes the easy part – the Bonamy Private Travel team are ready and waiting to help you saddle up with the right ride for you, and prepare for the wild beauty of Namibia to take your breath away. Book here or email here
Written by Emma Blunt for Luxuria Lifestyle International and Luxury Safari Magazine
Photos credited to Alex Du Toit